FJ weekend

It was good, as always, to be in the Frankenjura. Friday morning i took a plane to Munich where a good friend was waiting for me to drive the 170 km to the rocks. It was not good weather and the forecast was the same. But to our big surprise the rock was totally dry! In the beautiful Pegnitztal we first drove to 'goldenen lamm' for a big lunch. After that it was back to Ankatalwand in Rupprechtstegen. I always wanted to go there because of the good looking overhang. First we did a funny oldskool line. I went all the way to the top of the rockface and that appeared to be the exit of a good 9: café grande. Since I liked it immediately, I decided to start with this route. It seemed to be a fairly hard sequence of moves at the starting overhang, a nice move with small holds in the middle, and after a good rest that crux at the end.

Twice I missed the boulder in the start, but 3rd try was good! After that I checked out Café kraft. Shorter and with a very hard start, it's a good route, and I have to get back for it, I just missed the last hard move.

And it was time to go to 'zum guten einkehr' through rain and clouds but with good climbing meters despite the weather. Food was good and after that the williamsbirne was even better and lots of it. That meant we didn't make it to midnight to celebrate the BD of said friend, but we made that up the day after. After a good breakfast we went to meet up with 2 friends coming from Munich that morning. We decided to climb at ‘Zehnerstein’ in the trubachtal. The weather was still bad, but again the rock was dry. We did 3 routes, a long 7- with beautiful vertical FJ-pocketclimbing, a very long 8-, and I checked out ‘erinnerungsweg’, a 9- with a bitter crux over a roof; a painful deadpoint to a 2-finger pocket. I didn't like it, and didn’t want to do it. Stephan was working in the 8-, but there was something missing between his ears that day. It's all in the mind, but no for him today. So I needed to get the QD's out of the route, and decided to go over the 9- again, since the belay at the top is the same. And surprise: I pulled through the crux! Not bad, for not liking a route but still pulling through! At 16 hours it started raining for real, and we stopped for a nice BD cake at gasthof Eichler, after my gf finally arrived.

That evening it was a big party with food and even more willy's in the klosterbräu in Weisenohe, and a funny taxidrive back to the tents. In the morning we had good breakfast with sun in our faces and quickly to the ‘hintere stadelhofener wände’. A bit of a search but worth the walk, a good dry northsided wall with good routes up to 7+. Britta was in shape, doing a few good lines, onsighting ‘elliweg’ and almost doing a 6, and that after months of no climbing!

After a lunch with nice 'kuchen' it was for me to find a piece of rock not to far so I could get my daily climb-dope. I decided to try the 'gerüchteküche'. It looked overhanging and there were also some routes for the rest of us. After arriving it was 'wow' first (impressive cave), then 'wow' next (very nice 6b+), and 'wow' at last (cool 9-/9). We just had time for a quick traditional 'adlerschnitzel' in engelhardsberg (you never had something to eat that comes even close to this dish) and drove home to be typing this with tired eyes and arms at the moment.