Again a weekend with dry weather

Saturday Ettringen with Suan! It was relaxed except for the traffic jam near Düren. Suan and Harry were in Ettringen for the first time. So First I took them for a little sightseeing in the area. Finally we decide for the sector Mordor. We climb a few moderate routes, perfectly bolted and it’s more like chess than climbing says Suan. I do a few other routes that give a more ‘Ettringen’ feeling while Suan goes for the ‘classic’ cool running, 1 of the more sport climbing like routes in Ettringen. It is looking good, Suan fights, i try to motivate, but with the last hard but subtle move he is finished. Almost! Really a shame and Suan is not content.

We continue climbing in the sector ‘grotten’. I try my project again, but the holds are even moister than last time. So I stop trying immediately and climb ‘die wilde kerle’. Daniel Jung has created a traverse at the start of this route by climb out of the lower part of the cave to connect to the route. I can climb the traverse fairly quick, but the last move to connect to the original route is just to hard for me today. And believe me I tried! Just like Suan in ‘Diablo’. I could give him good beta because I did the route 2 weeks ago. With the fourth attempt Suan comes very far but just doesn’t finish it! But still it was a good day climbing, some quick food to finish (next time we will eat in the Eifelperle with a nice cool basaltbeer) and next day I have a ‘date’ with Jeroen in Mozet.

Again a fantastic day. It’s Perfect weather and we have a quiet climbing site. Like Suan mentioned on saturday, always drive, the days it really keeps raining are seldom. We warm up in ‘Gibbon’ and ’Korhoen’. I take the opportunity to try ‘Kwal’. Lie so oft in Mozet it’s bouldering with rope. It consists of 4 moves and a short easy exit. It works for me. Jeroen does ‘Kaketoe’ and ‘Vink’ and I decide to try ‘Unabomber’ today. When working out the moves I am surprised to find the middle part harder then the last part, where I expected the difficulties. Vertical and real Mozet-like, this route is technical and on real small holds. And the way I say it more often, not my thing, but just then a challenge. After that is trying the route. It all comes to 1 hard move sequence in the middle, and when I change that sequence after another attempt, I climb it like nothing. Super flow and without problems I enjoy the feeling of climbing a fairly hard route with small footholds in Mozet.

Jeroen goes for the beautiful ‘Adrenaline’. With an eye-opener considering foot technique and weight shifting, He fights himself to the chain. Satisfaction afterwards.

It also was a day of loose holds in the rock. When  Jeroen tries ‘monke see, monkey do’, someone to the right of us pulls a BIG hold out of the route ‘Babylon by bus’. He falls into the rope with (luckily) the hold as big as half a rucksack still in his hands, and he is lowered down. But the route is still climbable, it works without the broken holds.

And later in ‘Valk’ in the lower part i remove a big block. But also here no problems for the route, i am even able to make the moves past the 2^nd quickdraw, after I tried it several times before when I was in Mozet! Next time I hope to finish that on, what a strange route!

We go home in time and in the evening I enjoy my muscle ache. Let’s hope we get more weekends like this!